Get Schooled in Nutley, Pizza-Style

To a native Nutley-ite, Ralph’s is an institution. People who have moved hundreds of miles away will journey back for a Ralph’s pie every once in a while, paying homage to cheese, sauce, and crust without a trace of irony. It is a remarkably different style of pizza from the typical fare. It’s sauce-heavy (in fact, it is unusually very red in color) sweet-tasting, and always cooked well-done. The crust is buttery in flavor, crisp and dense, almost like a really solid, crunchy breadstick. Even the aroma drifting out to the street is unique and tantalizing. The pizzeria’s owners are clearly passionate about their livelihood – some might say to a fault.

Ralph’s found itself in the center of a swirl of controversy in 2005, when the Jaycees’ annual town-wide pizza contest/charity-fundraiser turned ugly. The contest had been going on for six or seven years, and Ralph’s had won the top prize every single time. One year, they actually abstained from participating to give someone else a chance. But in 2004, a new pizza joint called Michael’s came rolling into town and upset the contest, beating out Ralph’s. The following year, Michael’s was again crowned the best pizza in Nutley – until the owner of Ralph’s demanded a late-night recount (without any witnesses, I might add) which suspiciously overturned the original vote, naming Ralph’s the true winner. There was no hanging chad issue, but nevertheless, the town was in an uproar (how very North Jersey) and the contest has not been held since. At the very least, this is a pie that needs to be tasted, just to see what the fuss is all about.

If it’s nightlife you crave, go around the corner to Ralph’s Tavern, formerly known as the High Street Brewery. It was recently remodeled, so the dark booths and small tables have yet to acquire that bar-room grime. The crowd is usually comprised mostly of Nutley High graduates somewhere between the ages of ‘legally allowed to drink’ and ‘ten-year-reunion.’ As a place to drink, it’s largely unremarkable, although there is a two-for-one draught special on Tuesday nights. The biggest draw of the tavern is the ability to eat Ralph’s pizza in scarf-able, so-good-when-you’re-drunk, bar pie form.

The third component in the Ralph’s trifecta is a modest, candle-lit restaurant. The dining room seats about 25, tops, so it can be cozy for a date. During the day, the sun streams in the floor-to-ceiling windows, making for an amiable family atmosphere. The entrees served here are absolutely delicious. I would walk through fire for their chicken marsala. A side of angel hair is the perfect complement to any of their entrees (ask for it without sauce if you want to dump it on your plate of non-tomato-flavored food). They also serve a tasty house salad or antipasto. I have never tried the desserts because I’ve always been too full from dinner. The prices are nice, too, with a chicken entrée going for 12 or 13 bucks. Plus it’s BYOB, ensuring a financially-pleasing experience all around.

I wholeheartedly recommend the food at Ralph’s restaurant, but if your time, money, or appetite is limited and you have to choose, at least try the pie. If North Jersey had a Pizza 101 class, Ralph’s would be on the required eating list; it is an absolute must-try for any Italian, nay, food enthusiast. You, the discerning connoisseur, would be remiss if you couldn’t weigh in on the great Nutley pizza debate. Although, if you don’t think Ralph’s is the best, those fiery guys behind the counter won’t give a damn. With all the ballots finally counted, they’ve got the votes to prove they’re #1.

Ralph’s Pizzeria
564 Franklin Ave
Nutley
(973) 235-1130
http://eatatralphs.com/index.html

— by Nicole Little
Nicole, GoOutJersey's associate editor, is a Nutley native and recent Weehawken transplant. She loves dining out and imposing her opinions on others, which makes her a well-qualified reviewer.

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