An Italian Restaurant in Nutley? Go On!

Queen Margherita, formerly known as Regina Margherita (changed due to some kind of copyright dispute), is located in Nutley — can you fathom what type of cuisine it offers? I’ll give you three guesses and the first two don’t count.

A relative newcomer to the scene, Queen Margherita distinguishes itself from the pack with a more upscale atmosphere than is typically found in Nutley’s myriad restaurant/pizzerias. The tiny, cramped dining room is candle-lit and table-clothed, and is supplemented by a sidewalk-seating area which is open year-round. If you sit in the dining room, you have a good view of the pizza oven’s flaming interior. While the establishment does accomplish a certain level of classiness, the food doesn’t quite live up to the flair.

Seeing the place fairly packed even on a Monday and having to wait a half an hour to sit down on a Friday night (with a reservation, mind you), I figured the food would be outstanding. Backing up the hype, the Star Ledger’s famed “Munchmobile” reviewers declared the Queen’s pizza to be the best in town. Maybe it was all the fanfare that led me to be somewhat disappointed when I actually got to taste the food.

I’ve eaten at Queen Margherita on two different occasions. The first time, I got a chicken dish which was passable – I didn’t actively dislike it, but it wasn’t anything to write home about. On my second visit, I ordered Penne Regina, which was pasta in a light marinara sauce with lumps of mozzarella and… some other stuff. See? Kind of forgettable.

The prices are very reasonable – entrees are between $10 and $15, and meat dishes come with a side of pasta or salad. But to me, the bargain isn’t really worth the wait for a table. There are plenty of other Italian restaurants in Nutley who can serve up a comparable, or better, plate of ravioli.

One thing did stand out about Queen Margherita, though. Instead of a basket of bread before the meal, diners receive a starter basket of soft, fluffy, super-hot lumps of pizza dough (Ow. Burned myself. Ow again. Damnit!). Dunk that in the really, really good olive oil, and you’ve got yourself a meal right there. I don’t know what makes it so special. I think it’s a mix of garlic, red pepper, and magic.

I guess I owe it to Queen Margherita to at least try the pizza. If the rest of the pie is as good as that crust, they must really be contenders.

Queen Margherita
246 Washington Ave
Nutley
(973) 662-0007

FancyPants:

— by Nicole Little
Nicole, GoOutJersey's associate editor, is a Nutley native and recent Weehawken transplant. She loves dining out and imposing her opinions on others, which makes her a well-qualified reviewer.

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